Istanbul: three clubs, two continents
A city split by water, with three of the loudest grounds in Europe on either side of it. How to work out which side of the Bosphorus you need to be on.
Work out the geography before you book anything
Istanbul sits across two continents, divided by the Bosphorus, and the three big clubs are not on the same side. Galatasaray play in the north of the European side; Beşiktaş are also European, close to the water near Dolmabahçe; Fenerbahçe are across in Kadıköy, on the Asian side.
That matters more here than in most cities. Crossing the strait at the wrong hour, on a matchday, in traffic, can take a very long time. Decide which club you're seeing first and then choose where to sleep — not the other way round.
The pleasant way to cross is by ferry, and it is genuinely one of the best things about the city rather than merely transport. The metro and tram network is modern and easy, and a rechargeable travel card covers ferries, trams and metro together.
The atmosphere is the reason people come
Turkish football grounds are loud in a way that surprises visitors who thought they knew loud. This is the main attraction, and it is worth choosing a fixture with something at stake rather than the most convenient date.
One important caveat: for the biggest derbies between the three clubs, away supporters have frequently been barred, and rules on this change season to season. If you have your heart set on a derby, check what the arrangement is for that specific fixture before booking flights — and be clear which end you would be sitting in.
Super Lig kick-off times are confirmed relatively late and spread across the weekend.
What to do with the rest of the trip
Sultanahmet holds the headline sights — Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapı Palace, the Basilica Cistern — within walking distance of each other. It is busy, and timed-entry tickets bought ahead save a great deal of standing about.
Kadıköy on the Asian side is where a lot of the city's best eating and evening life is, and it is a short ferry from the European side. Even if you are not going to Fenerbahçe, it is worth a crossing.
The Grand Bazaar is an experience rather than a shopping trip. Expect to be approached constantly; it is not aggressive, but it tires children quickly.
Practical notes
Mosques are working places of worship. Modest dress is expected, heads covered for women, shoes off — and visiting is restricted during prayer times. It costs nothing to plan around and avoids an awkward morning.
Istanbul is a very large city with normal big-city pickpocketing in crowded tourist areas and on packed transport. Ordinary care is enough.
Turkey is outside the EU, so European travel insurance and roaming arrangements do not automatically apply. Check both before you fly.
Booking this trip
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